Fine Cheese & Charcuterie September 2013

I’ve often considered writing a book called, “The Customer’s Always Right ... and Other Myths.” I’ve never believed that old retail adage about the infallibility of shoppers, but I’ve found, except in the most extreme circumstances, that there is little or nothing to be gained from proving them wrong. In our feature this month, “Are You Being Served?” page 9, we’ll take a look at what it means to offer good or even great customer service, how important it is, and how it can set you apart from your competitors, especially the big-box stores and giant supermarkets. Aside from your selection of merchandise and how it is presented, customer service can be the most important, the most memorable, and the most easily controllable aspect of your business.

The 30th annual conference of the American Cheese Society (ACS) was held this summer in Madison, Wis., where a record number of cheeses were entered in the competition. The ACS has grown and evolved considerably over the past three decades, and I’ve been fortunate to be around to witness much of that evolution. Its mission is more important than ever today and it is rising to the challenge. In “Passport to the Deli” on page 6, we’ll review the results of the competition and take a look back at the roots of the ACS. As we all know, American cheese has come a long way, to the point where our cheeses can stand beside the greatest examples the world over. Any organization whose main purpose is to support and promote the cheesemakers who make all that great cheese is OK by me, and everyone in the industry should be supporting it via membership in the society and whenever possible by attending the annual conference, which, by the way, will be in Sacramento, Calif., next year.

From our “Deli Bookshelf” (page 13), we present a cheese book that admittedly is not a cookbook, nor even specifically a cheese book, and yet, I believe it is an important book for everyone in the cheese business to read. “The Telling Room” by Michael Paterniti is a marvelous account of a man and his cheese, as well as a loving glimpse inside the soul of Spain, and a treatise on what it means –and what it can cost– to be a true artisan in the 21st century. It had come highly recommended to me by my old pal Steven Jenkins, who had been asked to review it for The Wall Street Journal (Impressed? I was); and once I began, I found it difficult to put down. It’s a fabulous book by a terrific writer, and I urge you all to not only read the book but to put stacks of them for sale on your cheese counter.

Finally, my colleagues and I are now preparing to make our biannual trip to Germany to Cologne (Köln) in October to attend Anuga, the largest food trade show in the world. Anuga is a marvel- ous opportunity to see classic foods from around the world, innovative new products and packaging, and the trends that will be heading our way soon. The show is held at the Köln Messe that sits just across the legendary Rhine River from the city of Cologne. The Messe has undergone some renovations in recent years that have made it easier to navi- gate between the halls that are organized by category of food and beverage. I’ll be reporting back after the show with the results of our pilgrimage, and for those of you who will be in attendance there, I hope to see you in the aisles or at one of the many fine restaurants in the charming city of Cologne. Best of luck to everyone for a successful fall season.

James Mellgren 

Managing Editor, Fine Cheese & Charcuterie 

jmellgren@gourmetbusiness.com