Fine Cheese & Charcuterie October 2016

Recently, for my wife’s birthday we went to dinner at Chez Panisse, Alice Waters’ hugely influential Berkeley restaurant. For us, Chez Panisse is a neighborhood place that for many years has been our go-to spot for any special occasions – we had been there a few weeks before for my birthday and a few weeks before that for our anniversary (although admittedly, sometimes the occasion is just because we can). As usual, it was a wonderful experience and we had a great meal with perfect wine to match. To begin we shared a rocket (arugula) salad with figs, ricotta, and red onions, and one of their famous wood- oven-baked pizzettas, this one richly adorned with shaved strips of Parmigiano Reggiano. Both dishes were so simple and yet absolutely delicious, due not only to the skill of the CP cooks but because the quality of the individual ingredients was so high. I followed that up with the short ribs, also cooked in the wood-fired oven, with broccoli rabe and mashed potatoes. Sublime. I mopped up every last drop of the succulent sauce with the Acme bread that is somehow, mystifyingly better than anything you can buy from Acme Bread directly (and that’s saying a lot). 

Lest you think I’ve taken to writing restaurant reviews, let me add that the point of my story is how transformative simple, honest ingredients can be, especially when they are raised organically with as much thought given to the condition of the soil, the wellbeing of the animals, and the health of the farm workers as they do about the ultimate flavor of the food, and of course, skillfully prepared. Years ago, at a Meals-on-Wheels fundraising event in New York in which I had assisted Alice with some serving pieces for Chez Panisse’s contribution, an illustrious French chef from one of the city’s finest restaurants was overheard saying, as he passed the display of pristine ingredients at the CP table, “That’s not cooking, that’s shopping!” Clearly he didn’t get it, but we in the business of fine cheese, charcuterie, and other gourmet food products certainly do. Quality is everything and nothing elevates the dining experience like starting with the very best and freshest ingredients. Thanks to the high caliber of America’s specialty retailers, such as those who make up our readership, one doesn’t have to go to Chez Panisse to eat that way. Luckily, and thankfully, I get to do both. 

Cheers. 

James Mellgren 

Managing Editor, Fine Cheese & Charcuterie 

jmellgren@gourmetbusiness.com