Fine Cheese & Charcuterie May 2014

Chicago, Chicago, that toddlin’ town. I love Chicago. Great food, great architecture and great people. Last month, when we were all there for the International Home + Housewares Show (you can read about the Gourmet Business Pavilion in the May issue of Gourmet Business), in addition to a fabulous steak at Michael Jordan’s, I managed to get over to the new Eataly just off Michigan Avenue. I spent a couple of hours there perusing the different departments – I began in housewares and ended my visit at the coffee bar – and marveling at the design, the selection, and the sheer Italian-ness of it all. I had a wonderful lunch at the mozzarella bar upstairs, one of several eating spots within the Batali/Bastianich Italian wonderland. One of the important things about the foods of Italy is the many individual products that have come to define our industry, from acciughe to ziti, and this store has an impressive collection of both fresh and packaged goods, many of which I’ve not seen in this country before. Leave it to Mario. Eataly also represents some terrific merchandising throughout the entire two-story operation. If you get a chance to visit the Chicago store or the original one in New York, by all means go.

We also attended a party one evening celebrating Wüsthof’s 200th anniversary year. The venerable Wolfgang Wüsthof was there as well as his daughter, Viola Wüsthof, and nephew, Harold Wüsthof, who together have taken the reins of the company. Wolfgang is
a remarkable man. He speaks several languages, seems to have boundless energy and, I am told, well into his ’70s he recently went parachute skiing. As to their products, I don’t know of a serious kitchen anywhere, professional or home, that doesn’t include at least one of their peerless knives, and usually several. With a few exceptions, all of the knives in my batterie de cuisine at home are Wüsthof, some of which I’ve had for more than 30 years. Congratulations, Wolfgang and company.

This month, we revisit store signage (page 12), a subject I have written about for years and which is, without doubt, one of the best merchandising tools you can use. To illustrate my points, I challenged myself to come up with a bunch of sample signs for the deli. I hope some of them will inspire you to create some effective signs of your own. Remember, the pen is mightier than the sword, at least in retail sign-making.

We also examine the category of spreads and dips (page 6), an often ignored group of products that are nonetheless, more often than not, the life of any party.  There are a great many to choose from and, when properly merchandised, they translate to big business. Don’t spread yourself thin when it comes to this exciting category (sorry, I couldn’t resist).

I’m very pleased to give my review of “Cowgirl Creamery Cooks” (page 8), not only a marvelous cookbook but one of
the best books about cheese I’ve seen in a long time. The Cowgirls have made an indelible mark on the artisan cheese world and, in their debut book, they share their story and knowledge about cheesemaking and the cheese business, as well as some great recipes using our favorite ingredient. We also have our regular gallery of new products that you may not have seen, page 18.

Our hearts go out to our Rules and Regulations columnist, Margaret Eckert, who lost her mother March 2nd after a short illness. Being the indomitable professional that she is, she gave us her column anyway, and for that I am grateful and stand in awe. I’m very happy to have Margaret as part of our magazine family.

Welcome back, everyone, and happy spring. Cheers.

James Mellgren
Managing Editor, Fine Cheese & Charcuterie 

jmellgren@gourmetbusiness.com